DIY Tips

ezwoodshop - Wood Plans and Designs  

One of the most valuable (but mostly ignored) features in a cordless drill is the torque adjustment ring. Now I know it’s tempting to overlook all the techie-looking controls spattered around the handle of a modern drill. I certainly did when I bought my first Makita cordless drill. After all, how complicated can it be to drive a #8 woodscrew into plywood? Not too complicated, really. But that doesn’t mean features like a torque adjustment ring have no use. You might be surprised just how much this little control can change the way you work with wood.

 Staying in Control

The best way to understand what a torque adjustment ring does is to think of how we use hand-held screwdrivers. We let the of the screwdriver tell us what to do – when to bear down on the screw to prevent stripping the head – and when to back off to avoid driving the screw too deep. However, put an 18-volt power drill in our hands, and we no longer have that kind of subtle control over what’s happening. In a second we can completely strip out the head of a woodscrew, or drive a woodscrew so far into a board that comes out the other side.Enter the adjustable torque clutch! This is a great feature that lets you decide just how much power to unleash on a woodscrew. On most cordless drills, the torque clutch is located just behind the chuck. It’s a twistable ring that starts at 0 and goes up to something like 20 or 25. Zero means full brakes are on – providing a super gentle twist of the bit. At 25 your drill is totally unleashed – giving all the muscle it has to offer. So what does that mean for you?

Using the torque clutch to avoid stripping heads We’ve all had this problem. A stubborn woodscrew won’t go flush to the board. So we bear down and force the screw in. Sometimes that works. Sometimes not. More often we end up stripping the head. Of course the problem has nothing to do with the drill itself. It usually means the pilot hole is too small for the screw. The nice thing about a torque clutch is that it gives us advance warning of this kind of trouble. A noticeable clacking sound tells us the clutch is engaged, and that the drill is holding back it’s muscle to prevent stripping the head.

Using the torque clutch to avoid buried wood screws

Just as much a problem as screws not going in far enough are screws that go too far. Be assured that when you see the head of a screw start to disappear into the face of a board, you’re asking for problems. The adjustable torque clutch can help prevent this. If you can get your pilot holes and screw sizes matched up the way they should be matched, the adjustable torque clutch will do a nice job of knowing exactly when to stop driving the screw.

It’s a trial-and-error process more or less, so the numbers themselves on the ring (0-25) don’t really mean anything. For example, if your project calls for brass woodscrews that can easily get stripped out, start out at zero just to see how far in the drill will take them. Then gradually move up in numbers till you have just right amount of torque to set the screw flush to the face of the board – without going too far in. Once there, you might want to keep a note of where the clutch is set for doing similar projects in the future.

Any job is easier when your tools are placed and organized in a Tool Bag. Not to mention all of the time you will save not having to search for your favorite hammer or screwdriver. 

Our favorite Open-Top Designed Tool Bag is the DeWalt DG5587  14″ Open-Top Tool Carrier.

DeWalt Tool Bag

 Handy slots and compartments for screwdrivers, files, carpenter’s pencils, utility knife, electric tape strap and measuring tape clip. Open-top design with collapsible bar handle allows for excellent visibility and access to all contents. Includes Two Flap-Covered pockets with a nifty hook and loop closure which is great for your cell phone. Made from heavy-duty and ballistic poly fabric construction gives this Tool Carrier long life and durability. This Tool Bag also has four rubber base pads for added protection on the bottom of the bag. Costing under $40.00

Think about the tools you most often use, and choose a tool bag that has the right number of slots, pockets or loops for your tool load.

 Another  Top Rated Tool Bag is the Bucket Boss 06004 Gatemouth Tool Bag.

Quality and price, costing under $25.00, is what sets this bag apart from the pack. Bucketboss brand of Tool Bags have always made durability their #1 priority when manufacturing their Tool Bags and Tool Belts. This Tool Bag has 23 pockets with a large interior for power tools, extension cords or anything else.  Padded sides and reinforced bottom made from 600 denier fabric. This Bag is appropriately named because of its 9″ x 15″ opening and this bag measures 17″ in length by 9″ wide X 12″ in height. You can accommodate most mid-sized power tools, along with additional accessories.

The Drummond-Revere Home “Restovation” blog is the brainchild of Jerad Foster, a “third generation home builder” and furniture designer in the Kansas City area.

The home takes its name from its architect – Don Drummond.  No, not the trombone player, although he’s pretty cool, too.  Drummond was one of the pioneers of modern home architecture in the American midwest.

Not just a regular remodel, the Drummond-Revere home is also a historical renovation, which adds its own layers of complexity and complication to the already unpredictable business of doing a renovation.

In addition to updates on the house, Jerad also shares tidbits from his personal life (like his search for a classic Eames lounger) and his business.

Jerad’s blog is an engaging read and showcases a really awesome modern home.  It’s definitely worth a look.

Whenever you invest in a heavy piece of equipment or even a small hand tool, it is recommended for safety and quality purposes that you perform routine maintenance before and after every use. Not only will this keep your equipment clean and in working condition, but it will also keep you safe. Here are a few maintenance tips that you should use to ensure your equipment is up to par:

1 – Check for dull, broken or bent blades on your different saws. Starting a job with a less than perfect blade may not produce the results you intended for, which can botch a whole job and cost you lots more time and money in the long run. Blades that are not in the right condition can also lead to injury if they break while using your saw or if you force a dull blade. Make sure you are routinely changing/sharpening blades to stay safe.

2 – Clean any dust away from all of your machines. It is inevitable working in a wood shop that you will have wood dust on all of your equipment. When using your machines, make sure all wood dust is cleared off the piece of equipment that you are working with. This prevents any kick back of dust when you power up the machine, which can potentially damage your eyes. This will also make sure that your equipment does not get clogged up with dust, which can cause it to malfunction. A dust collector is recommended on all of your heavy equipment to keep the dust out of the air and your machines.

3 – Oil your tools as much as possible. Check to see if all moving parts are working correctly and in good order. Once you are done cleaning out all the dust and debris, put a few drops of oil in all the gears and moving parts. Some equipment has specific parts that need consistent lubrication to keep it running well.

4 – Examine power cords and check batteries to make sure nothing is leaking or damaged before using.

By performing these simple tips you will be kept safer and your equipment will last longer. Trust us – we’re the tool experts.

More often than not, a ratty old piece of furniture can be salvaged and saved at a fraction of the cost of buying a new piece. When Grandma’s armoire or Dad’s old desk is about to hit the last yard sale of the season, try refurbishing it instead with some of these great tips for repainting furniture.

1. Repainting furniture can be a great way to revitalize your home, however, it’s practically useless if the furniture is already in bad shape. Check to see if the condition of the wood is good and then sand or dispose of as needed. Hardware can be easily replaced, so don’t focus on it.

2. The first thing to do if you’re painting furniture is to sand it lightly to rub off any coatings that could prevent the paint from sticking. Be sure to use a gentle method if you’re working with antiques. Remove all hardware.

3. Next, apply a coat of primer, which can help prevent stains from bleeding through the new paint.

4. Primer must match the type of paint you have chosen. For furniture it’s best to use a satin or semigloss finish in either a latex or an oil-based paint. Never leave primer unpainted.

5. Once you’ve primed, now it’s time to paint. Latex paint is great for painting most furniture pieces without the odor of oil-based paint, although oil-based paint can offer more stain resistance. Either way, be sure you repaint your furniture in a well-ventilated room.

6. In addition to choosing between latex and oil-based, choose the right kind of sheen for your furniture piece. Gloss allows for more shine while flat will work as a matte surface. It’s really up to you.

7. When painting, start at the tip and work down, smoothing paint drips as you go.

8. Once the paint has dried, spot check for any touch ups and paint as necessary. Reattach hardware.